The Best Straight Razor Hone for Beginners

One of the things we love about straight razors is the ability to maintain them over many years with very few inputs. But, of course, the tradeoff is that you must maintain it to keep it shaving-sharp. Stropping the blade before and after each shave maximizes its performance, and oiling a carbon steel blade will keep it rust-free. When stropping alone no longer does the trick, it's time to break out the hones. For most end-users, we recommend the Norton 4k/8k hone, but only one that has been lapped. Read on to learn more about why we love the Norton hone, how we treat it to get the most out of it, and when to use it.

When to Hone Your Razor

It may be helpful to think of the razor's edge as an arrangement of microscopic metal fibers. A freshly honed and stropped blade will have uniform fibers aligned in the same direction such that they effortlessly glide through hydrated facial hair. However, hair is still pretty tough, so each pass distorts a few microscopic fibers. Not so many that you would notice, but enough that their accumulation would impact the quality of your shave. Stropping can realign them many times, but eventually, those metal fibers fatigue and break off and leave a dull spot. We call this normal wear and tear, and honing should only be required once or twice a year for a quality blade that is stropped regularly. 

Now, imagine you never strop your razor. The fibers would deform further and further until no amount of stropping could realign them. The deformed edge must then be honed away to reveal fresh steel. Doing so would shorten the lifespan of the razor, but is necessary for restoring its usefulness. Similarly, waiting until the razor is so dull that it's impossible to shave with would require more steel removal than regular honing. For these reasons, we recommend stropping each time you shave and honing before it's desperately needed. This interval will change razor-to-razor and user-to-user, given the range of variables. 

Choosing Razor Hones

Straight razors are not like the knives you might find in your pocket or kitchen; razor steels are harder and more brittle but also take a more refined, polished edge ideal for splitting hairs. It follows that razor hones will differ from those you'd use to sharpen your pocket knife. Razor hones will also be smoother and harder, producing the uniquely mirror-smooth razor's edge. For general maintenance, we recommend hones in the 1000-4000 grit range and 8000-12000 grit for finishing (higher numbers mean finer grits, in this case). It's important to note that most pocket knives and chef's knives (excluding authentic Japanese cutlery) will not benefit from sharpening on high-grit hones due to the treatment of their steels. Softer steels will perform better with microscopic serrations produced by grits under 1000. 

A razor hone that has been properly lapped has an surface finish that is immediately recognizable with the addition of water.

There are plenty of premium hone systems available, such as those by Naniwa or Shapton. We use a mix of Norton and Naniwa for our honing services. However, not everyone wants to spend $400 plus on what amount to sophisticated bricks. For this reason, we have narrowed our recommendation down to just one combination hone that meets the needs of most people honing their razors at home. It's affordable, versatile, and effective (after some minor adjustments in our workshop): the Norton 4k/8k combination waterstone. 

The Norton 4k/8k Waterstone

An unlapped (left) versus lapped (right) Norton 4k/8k combination waterstone

The Norton 4k/8k combination waterstone is our favorite general-purpose straight razor hone. The 4000-grit side is coarse enough to remove chips and dings efficiently, and the 8000-grit is sufficiently smooth to produce a mirror polish on the razor's edge suitable for shaving. Unfortunately, Norton leaves much to be desired in the surface treatment of their hones. Straight from the factory, they are unsuitable for honing straight razors. The honing surface must be lapped first to work well, which is why you can't purchase them just anywhere (and why our prices are a little higher than those you'll find elsewhere online). Lapping is the process of using a specialized plate that is perfectly flat and hardened to remove inconsistencies in the hone's sharpening surface. We use this to treat each hone before shipping, guaranteeing that the surface is uniform and optimal for honing your straight razors. We also bevel the edges of the hone to prevent chips and breakage. The result is a versatile hone that will last thousands of honing sessions! 

What’s So Special About Carbon Steel Straight Razors?

These items can go through hell and make it out the other side just fine--a little more worn, a little different, a little rougher, yes. But still full of life--and so can we.

There are a lot of quality blade steels out there. They generally fall into two categories: carbon steel and stainless steel. With proper heat treatment and a skilled hand while grinding, most of the available blade steels in either category can produce a shave-ready razor. So, why might you choose one over the other? In this article, we talk about the romance of carbon steel, why we’ve fallen in love with it, and how to care for yours so that it develops a beautiful patina rather than turn to dust.

It’s Not the Years. It’s the Mileage

Think of classic cars, your great grandfather's hand tools, waxed canvas jackets, cast iron pans, or finely crafted leather shoes. These items, useful in their own right, are uniquely beautiful because of the life and character that their roughness suggests. In many ways, they work better and are more enjoyable to use because of their distressed condition. The mileage shows, and that's alright! You cannot fake the look of an authentic patina. It's an aesthetic derived from experience; one must earn it. These items can go through hell and make it out the other side just fine--a little more worn, a little different, a little rougher, yes. But still full of life--and so can we.

A straight razor is a lifetime investment, a work of functional art designed to transcend multiple generations. Our choice of premium, high-performance materials such as O1 high-carbon tool steel reflects our focus on permanence. But carbon steel requires additional care to maintain compared to stainless steel. Stainless steel razors require no maintenance beyond regular sharpening, will not rust, and are excellent shavers. But for an item destined to be an heirloom, an immaculate finish isn't necessarily preferred. Carbon steels are desirable for more than just their sharpness: they take on a life of their own with time. Smudges and stains accumulate to form a beautiful patina, an oxidized layer that lends character and some corrosion-resistance. Like a fingerprint, this patina is unique to the individual blade and its owner. 

What Is Patina? What is Rust?

Patina is different from rust, aka iron oxide. Both form through oxidation of the metal, but rust penetrating deep into the metal will cause permanent damage that shortens the razor's lifespan. Rust is orange-red color and tends to form where moisture has spent sufficient time on the steel. Superficial rust is not the end of the world and is easy to remove through polishing, but keep in mind that polishing will also remove any patina. Even rust that has caused some pitting is not necessarily fatal and, once removed, can add an especially rustic flair. As long as rust does not penetrate through the entire blade and doesn't form near the razor's edge, it isn't catastrophic. So, how does one achieve a beautiful patina without ruining the razor with rust? With time and proper care.

Caring for your carbon steel razor is one of the joys of ownership. Periodic cleaning, sharpening, and oiling of the blade are imperative to maintaining its primary function in the longterm. Routine maintenance is also an opportunity to observe any changes to the patina and appreciate the care and attention to detail in its fabrication.

How to Care for Your Carbon Steel Straight Razor

Proper Handling of Carbon Steel Blades

• Carefully strop the razor before and after every shave.

• To test the edge's sharpness, try shaving some hair. Avoid touching the edge with a finger, nail, paper, or other materials for testing purposes.

• If stropping no longer produces a shave-ready edge, it's time to hone the razor.

• Clean the razor after use. Rinse the blade with hot water and wipe clean with soft cotton, microfiber, or suede.

• When rinsing the blade, avoid getting water in the scales where it can hide and cause rust. If water makes its way into the scales, dry them carefully with an absorbent cloth and apply a drop of oil to the blade at the pivot.

Proper Storage of Carbon Steel Blades

• For long-term storage, apply a drop of light oil to the cleaned blade.

• Store your razor in a breathable, moisture-wicking sheath away from sources of humidity.

• If storing in a safe or locked cabinet, consider installing a dehumidifying rod to reduce ambient humidity and the chance of rust formation.

Quality, durable goods are made to be used, maintained, and repaired. As time goes on, they come to tell their own story. Every stain, break and mend marks a chapter in its life and that of its owner. What tale will your razor tell?

Yes, New York STATE Barbers and Stylists Can Use Real Straight Razors!

You may have heard that conventional straight razor use is illegal in professional barbershops and salons. You might think they are somehow unsafe for you or your client. Even in school, an instructor might have told you, “only single-use blades are legal” . This is a MYTH perpetuated by decades of misinformation, and we’d like to set the record straight. Right here, right now.

STATE BOARD HAS THE ANSWER

Each state’s health authority lays out specific requirements for clean and safe practices in barbershops. We have checked rules & regs in many states including OR, CA, WA, CO, UT, PA, FL, TN, NY, NJ… In fact, the only state we have confirmed explicitly prohibits use of conventional straight razors is Rhode Island!

Now, obviously we’re not lawyers, but we are advocates for a better world with a more sustainable culture. As such, give your local health authority a call! We have phoned several different states and most often the response to, "Are reusable straight razors illegal to use in the shop?" is, "Who told you that? Of course it's fine to use those..."

Nevertheless, you may carry this myth with you as a barber or stylist. I think we create barriers like this because we’re afraid of what the answer will be. The answer might restrict us further or reveal an answer which we weren't prepared to digest. We’re taught that striking out on our own is to pursue a freedom we couldn't find in a "regular" job, so we avoid rules and authority so that we don't have to be on the hook for knowing the answer. I completely understand this and could dedicate a full series of posts to that fear and doubt. Maybe I’ll get around to those posts at some point, but in the meantime, call the board! They have the answers and there’s no risk in asking them questions!

NEW YORK’S RULES

The New York Department of State Statutory Authority: Public Health Law does not name razors specifically in its sanitation requirements, but does mention equipment and implements more broadly, and how to maintain their sanitary condition:

Ҥ10.24 Sanitation of equipment and implements
(a) Hair brushes, combs and all other implements used on a customer shall be kept clean and sanitary at all times and shall undergo thorough cleansing after serving each customer. (b) After handling a customer affected with an eruption, or whose skin is broken out, or is inflamed, or contains pus, the instruments shall be effectively cleaned, washed with soap or a detergent and water, then rinsed with water having a temperature of at least 170 degrees Fahrenheit or allowed to remain for five minutes in alcohol (70 percent–80 percent) or some other equally efficient disinfectant.”

New York does not distinguish between grades of disinfectant, so the use of Barbicide Plus is not required.

New York does, however, prohibit the use of traditional shave brushes and mugs/bowls for building a shaving lather:

Ҥ10.25 Shaving brushes, mugs and finger bowls
The use of shaving brushes and shaving mugs is prohibited. The use of finger bowls is prohibited unless a separate sanitary inner paper liner or cup is used for each customer and discarded immediately after use.”

In short, conventional straight razors are perfectly safe for you to use as long as they are properly sanitized between each client.

OUR SANITIZATION PROCESS

We developed the following process to meet these requirements and guarantee that our razors are sharp and safe for each client. Every step should be performed before each use:

1. Carefully rinse and dry the entire straight razor with a clean towel.

2. Strop the razor.

3. Immerse the razor and scales (closed) in an approved disinfectant such as Barbicide for the manufacturer’s recommended duration.

4. Rinse and dry the razor with a clean towel, and place in a sealed, clean container for storage prior to use.

5. Upon completion of the shave, repeat steps 1-4 to prepare for the next client.

6. Because a strop is porous and cannot be sanitized, NEVER strop the razor without then completing the entire sanitation process. The same is true if the razor comes in contact with any other unsanitary surface.

7. NEVER use the razor on multiple clients without sanitizing in between. For the safety of your clients, sanitize the razor before using it on your next client.

WHERE DID THIS MYTH COME FROM?

This brings us to an important point which may explain why conventional straight razors fell out of fashion in the first place. As our understanding of blood-borne diseases and sanitary practices expanded, health authorities updated code to keep clients and practitioners safe in the 1980s and 1990s. Unfortunately, straight razor manufacturers had been on the decline since the early 1900s with the introduction of disposable razors to the market and never updated the straight razor's materials to withstand the disinfectants required by the new rules:

1. Vintage Blades made of high carbon steel do not hold an edge in high-level disinfectant.

2. Vintage Scales made of organic materials such as bone or horn or low-quality plastics also do not fare well in the high-level.

In this way, conventional razors were made impractical through legislation while still leaving the door open if improvements were made to the materials. When developing our Professional Line, we approached these rules and regulations to guide our material choices and were able to hatch a straight razor that was classic, non-disposable, and fully sanitizable!

If you have any doubts about the legality of using a conventional straight razor in your shop, we urge you to take a quick look through your local health authority's documentation. It is all available online and should clear things up!

P.S. If you feel your barber would benefit by implementing conventional straight razors in their practice, we hope you will share this article with them!

Yes, California Barbers and Stylists Can Use Real Straight Razors!

You may have heard that conventional straight razor use is illegal in professional barbershops and salons. You might think they are somehow unsafe for you or your client. Even in school, an instructor might have told you, “only single-use blades are legal” . This is a MYTH perpetuated by decades of misinformation, and we’d like to set the record straight. Right here, right now.

STATE BOARD HAS THE ANSWER

Each state’s health authority lays out specific requirements for clean and safe practices in barbershops. We have checked rules & regs in many states including OR, CA, WA, CO, UT, PA, FL, TN, NY, NJ… In fact, the only state we have confirmed explicitly prohibits use of conventional straight razors is Rhode Island!

Now, obviously we’re not lawyers, but we are advocates for a better world with a more sustainable culture. As such, give your local health authority a call! We have phoned several different states and most often the response to, "Are reusable straight razors illegal to use in the shop?" is, "Who told you that? Of course it's fine to use those..."

Nevertheless, you may carry this myth with you as a barber or stylist. I think we create barriers like this because we’re afraid of what the answer will be. The answer might restrict us further or reveal an answer which we weren't prepared to digest. We’re taught that striking out on our own is to pursue a freedom we couldn't find in a "regular" job, so we avoid rules and authority so that we don't have to be on the hook for knowing the answer. I completely understand this and could dedicate a full series of posts to that fear and doubt. Maybe I’ll get around to those posts at some point, but in the meantime, call the board! They have the answers and there’s no risk in asking them questions!

CALIFORNIA’S RULES

The California Board of Barbering & Cosmetology names razors specifically in its definitions of non-electrical tools and implements.

977. Definitions.

“Non-Electrical Tools — All tools used for barbering, cosmetology and electrology that do not use any form of electricity to operate. These include, but are not limited to shears, razors, cuticle nippers, cuticle pushers, nail clippers, metal files, metal smoothers, combs and hair clips.”

California does not distinguish between grades of disinfectant, so the use of Barbicide Plus is not required.

“Disinfectant — A product registered by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) that has demonstrated bactericidal, fungicidal and virucidal activity. The products used must include a label from the manufacturer that indicates the EPA registration and must be in liquid form to disinfect non-electrical tools and spray or wipe form to disinfect electrical tools and shears.”

Finally, they give instructions for proper disinfection.

“979. Disinfecting Non-Electrical Instruments and Equipment

(a) Before use upon a client, all non-electrical tools that can be disinfected, excluding shears, shall be disinfected in the following sequential manner:

(1) Remove all visible debris.

(2) Clean with soap or detergent and water.

(3) Completely dry tools with a new, clean paper towel.

(4) Then totally immerse in an EPA-registered disinfectant with demonstrated bactericidal, fungicidal, and virucidal activity, used according to manufacturer's instructions.

(5) Licensees or students shall wear protective gloves or use tongs when removing tools from the disinfectant.

(b) The disinfectant solutions specified in subdivision (a) shall:

(1) Remain covered at all times.

(2) Be changed according to the manufacturer’s instructions or when it is cloudy or contains debris.

(c) All tools used on a client or soiled in any manner shall be placed in a container labeled “Dirty”, “Soiled”, or “Contaminated”.

(d) All disinfected tools shall be stored in a clean, covered place which is labeled “Clean” or “Disinfected”.

(e) Disinfected tools shall not be placed in a container, pouch or holder which cannot be disinfected.”

In short, conventional straight razors are perfectly safe for you to use as long as they are properly sanitized between each client.

Portland Razor Co. Cascade Steel Straight Razor in High-Level Barbicide.

OUR SANITIZATION PROCESS

We developed the following process to meet these requirements and guarantee that our razors are sharp and safe for each client. Every step should be performed before each use:

1. Carefully rinse and dry the entire straight razor with a clean towel.

2. Strop the razor.

3. Immerse the razor and scales (closed) in an approved high-level disinfectant such as Barbicide Plus for manufacturer’s recommended duration.

4. Rinse and dry the razor with a clean towel, and place in a sealed, clean container for storage prior to use.

5. Upon completion of the shave, repeat steps 1-4 to prepare for the next client.

6. Because a strop is porous and cannot be sanitized, NEVER strop the razor without then completing the entire sanitation process. The same is true if the razor comes in contact with any other unsanitary surface.

7. NEVER use the razor on multiple clients. For the safety of your clients, sanitize the razor before using it on your next client.

WHERE DID THIS MYTH COME FROM?

This brings us to an important point which may explain why conventional straight razors fell out of fashion in the first place. As our understanding of blood-borne diseases and sanitary practices expanded, health authorities updated code to keep clients and practitioners safe in the 1980s and 1990s. Unfortunately, straight razor manufacturers had been on the decline since the early 1900s with the introduction of disposable razors to the market and never updated the straight razor's materials to withstand the disinfectants required by the new rules:

1. Vintage Blades made of high carbon steel do not hold an edge in high-level disinfectant.

2. Vintage Scales made of organic materials such as bone or horn or low-quality plastics also do not fare well in the high-level.

In this way, conventional razors were made impractical through legislation while still leaving the door open if improvements were made to the materials. When developing our Professional Line, we approached these rules and regulations to guide our material choices and were able to hatch a straight razor that was classic, non-disposable, and fully sanitizable!

If you have any doubts about the legality of using a conventional straight razor in your shop, we urge you to take a quick look through your local health authority's documentation. It is all available online and should clear things up!

P.S. If you feel your barber would benefit by implementing conventional straight razors in their practice, we hope you will share this article with them!

Straight Razor Care and Maintenance Tips for Barbers and Stylists

Our Pro Line consists of products we recommend for performing top-notch services in barber shops and salons. We received a question this week regarding our Pro Line which we feel might be helpful to other barbers and stylists using our straight razors. With Sydney’s permission, we have included her original email below:

“I am a barber and I recently purchased a straight razor from you guys. I am absolutely in love with it, however, I couldn’t find definitive after care instructions on your site. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Best,
Sydney ”

First, we love this question and what it says about Sydney’s professionalism. Not only has she invested in quality, sustainable tools for the trade, she's taking the initiative in learning to care for those tools and protect her investment! For those seeking a competent barber near Simi Valley, look no further. You can book an appointment here: @syd.scissorhands

Straight Razor Care, Between Services

Fortunately, caring for your Cascade Steel straight razor between shaves is super easy and can be broken down into the three S’s:

Strop! — Sanitize! — Store!

Strop

Stropping keeps your razor keen, clean, and ready to shave effortlessly. After sanitation and skin prep, having a sharp blade is the most important factor in providing a quality shave service, so don’t skip it! The more often you strop, the less time it takes each stropping to restore the edge to shaving sharp. At a minimum, strop your razor at the beginning and end of every shift, but ideally before every service. While this may seem like a cumbersome chore--especially at first while you’re getting the technique down--just remember how much time is wasted changing blades in your shavette. It also gets a lot faster the more you practice. Skipping the strop or doing so improperly will result in lost time waiting for the razor to be sharpened down the road. If you haven’t already, be sure to check out our in-depth stropping tutorial.

Sanitize

Between services, rinse the entire razor and immerse in an approved disinfectant. This isn’t just because it’s required by health authorities (which we’ve written about extensively in a previous post); keeping your razor clean will keep it looking and performing its absolute best. Since you’re using our Cascade Steel razors, the entire razor is safe to immerse in water and high-level disinfectants for worry-free sanitation and compliance.

Store

Once your razor is properly stropped and sanitized, close and store it somewhere safe. Ideally, your razor should have its own sheath or box; don’t just toss it in your kit, since other tools can slide between the razor’s scales and damage the edge inadvertently. A toothbrush travel holder is an easy-to-clean and widely available storage solution for your cutthroat razor!

We hope you found this helpful! If you have any other questions, please send them to us!